The following paragraph describes routes where no particular technical equipment is required. Although relatively easy these routes are more than just walks. The SAC climbing guides describe them as L. Please ask for information about the current conditions at the Rotondo hut. More difficult alpine routes are described in the alpine routes section.
(L) Stimulating tour to the summit between Pizzo Rotondo and Pizzo Pesciora. Both routes take about 4-5 hours to the summit and back again to the hut. Combination of the routes 169, 458 and 462; respectively: 169, 465 and 461 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995).
This route leads from the Rotondo hut across the Witenwasseren glacier on to the Witenwasseren pass (2819 m). From the Witenwasseren pass - after a short descent - traverse the foot of the Witenwasserenstock west ridge at approx. 2740 m. Soon you'll get into the glacier basin of the Geren glacier below the Passo inferiore di Pesciora (crevasses). Across the bergschrund and through a couloir you'll reach the col about 50 m south of point 3034 m. From the col move up the ridge and bypass the first group of bizarre looking needles to the right - the following needles are also bypassed left or right. Return the same way to the hut. The Gerenhorn can also be reached from the Passo superiore die Pesciora.
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(L) Mountain with outstanding panorama situated on the border of the cantons Wallis and Tessin. 4 hours to the summit and back to the hut. Combination of the routes 169, 465 and 470 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995).
Another route leading from the Rotondo hut across the Witenwasseren glacier on to the Witenwasseren pass (2819 m). From the Witenwasseren pass - after a short descent - traverse the foot of the Witenwasserenstock west ridge at approx. 2740 m. Soon you'll get into the glacier basin of the Geren glacier and across it to the Passo superiore di Pesciora (crevasses). Along a rock shelf with debris you reach the SSE ridge which is followed up to the summit. From the Witenwasserenstock the glacier basin below the Pizzo Pesciora can be reached using a 20 m rappel in southern direction which is situated on a small gap west of the Witenwasserenstock east summit (a chain is fixed at the start of the rappel).
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Child Mountain Climber Expedition to the Witenwasserenstock
(L) Worthwhile route to the point where the three cantons Tessin, Wallis and Uri meet. This place is also a watershed leading to three different seas. 3 hours including the return to the Rotondo hut, 5 hours if the Pizzo Pesciora is also climbed (very much recommended), 4 hours if also the main summit is climbed. Combination of the routes 475, 465 and 470 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995).
From Rotondo hut via the Witenwasseren glacier (crevasses) to the Witenwasseren pass. Traverse below the Witenwasserenstock in southeastern direction and ascend further to the NE ridge, which is reached between the points 2908 m and 3025 m near two old military huts. Move along the ridge to the east summit, Pt. 3025 m (attention, vertical drop to the south side with unstable cornices). If the Pizzo Pesciora is also to be climbed, abseil down south for 20 m from a small gap west of the east summit of the Witenwasserenstock (chain to rappel from is fixed). Description of that route.
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(L, III) Worthwhile route to the main summit. 1 hour including the return to the east summit. Route 481 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995).
Continue from Witenwasserenstock East Summit (3025m) on the ridge in direction to the main summit, Pt. 3082 m. Approx. 50 meters after the abseil place to the Gerengletscher the ridge rises significantly. Here you have two options: either to the right (north side) for 60 meters across a snow field (quite delicate depending on the conditions). The other (recommended) option is to keep on top of the ridge (2 bolts at the belay, 1 intermediate bolt, belay after 20 meters using a sling at a little rock spur). From the belay climb 40 meters up to a chain, 1 bolt, some slings or rocks may be useful, difficulty II-III. Continue from the chain along the ridge up to the main summit using short rope technique. The summit slab - where the summit book is placed - again offers some excellent climbing (difficulty of the summit slab III). On the descent use the short rope to get back to the chain, where you can belay and climb down the following 40 m. The best way of getting down the remaining 20 m is to abseil down.
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(L) Demanding alpine route across the Gross Muttenhorn to the Furkapass. 6 hours. Combination of the routes 148, 115 and 113 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995). Highly recommended also in opposite direction .
From the Rotondo hut to the Leckipass (2892 m). Descend down to the Mutten glacier until to the Chrummegg (2447 m) and walk across the moraines of the Mutten glacier to the Muttenstöck (2611 m) where the ENE ridge begins. From there a broad ridge leads to the summit of the Gross Muttenhorn (3099,1 m). Descend from the summit via two cols at 3005 m and 2985 m on the southern flank. Continue east of the glacier to Pt. 2494 m. On the small military road you'll finally reach the Furka pass (bus stop).
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