The Leckihörner in late autumn
The area of the Rotondo hut offers many worthwhile climbing routes, alpine tours and ice climbs. The more demanding ones are described below. In addition, less difficult alpine routes are described in the hiking section of this guide and in the walking section fo this guide.
On the summit of the Gross Leckihorn
Interesting, exposed climb across the ridges of "Klein Leckihorn" and "Gross Leckihorn". From the Rotondo hut up to the Gross Leckihorn approx. 4 hours, from there in approx. 30 minutes back to the Rotondo hut. The route described below represents a combination of the routes 169, 167, 162 and 148 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995). Grade III in the rocks, glacier and névé are easy, overall difficulty ZS. Equipment: Some chocks, slings and maybe a few Friends. The belays of those parts not climbed on short rope are equipped one bolt each where a second fixed point can be installed easily using slings or wedges.
From the Rotondo hut follow the path to the Witenwasseren glacier across which you reach the "Witenwasseren" pass. From this pass (2819 m) the foot of the ridge is gained beyond a closed hut. Now follow the ridge until behind an ocher-coloured rock a reddish gendarme is traversed. Here you'll find a chain for rappel. The following, quite massive tower is not climbed but by-passed to the right (east side) quasi horizontally. Move up the next couloir to the ridge and further up the ridge. . The climb after the couloir can be avoided by climbing more to the right into an easier couloir. You'll finally reach the snow slope above the col 2968 m and the summit rocks of "Kleines Leckihorn". From "Kleines Leckihorn" the descend leads down a snow field to the col at 2968 m and down to the foot of the "Gross Leckihorn" ridge . Climb the outbreak directly (grade III, bolt at the belay at the bottom) or somewhat to the right of it across gravel and lawn. Now follow the sharp ridge of very solid, red granite up to the summit of the Gross Leckihorn (approx. 3070 m). From here the descend leads down the north ridge (-) to the Leckipass (2892 m) and further across snow fields and the moraine down to the Rotondo hut.GPS track and map is here.
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In the first rope length of the SE ridge of the Gross Leckihorn
Beautiful climb of approx. 150 m of altitude on good rock. The rocks are grade IV+, glacier and snow-fields are easy. Equipment: Rocks, slings, a few Friends. Combination of the routes 169, 483, 481 and 475 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995). Approx. 5 hours from the Rotondo hut and back again.
From the Rotondo hut up to the Witenwasseren pass and then, around the foot of the south west ridge, almost to the Passo dei Sabbioni. At his point a large pillar divides the south face with another small pillar attached on its western side. Following to the left of this small pillar there is a slab with brown stripes running through it. A system of cracks leads down on the left side of the slab and marks the start of the climb about 3 meters left of two large, split blocks. The first pitch follows the cracks about 35 m to a stance. On the left rib of the small pillar move diagonally to the right until you reach a piton, Traverse to the right and climb up to the top of the pillar. The folowing grass band leads about 15 meters upwards diagonally the right to a flake with pitons. From there move 2 meters to the left and then straight up across an overhang to the stance. Now easy terrain leads to the south west ridge and - following this ridge - to the western summit (3082 m). From the western summit use the east ridge in direction to the eastern summit (3025 m).Crossing a snow basin you'll finally reach the Witenwasseren glacier on which you get back to the Rotondo hut.
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Summit of the Witenwasserenstock West Summit
Beautiful climb on good rock on the ridge that is clearly visible form the Rotondo hut. The rocks are grade IV+ to V -, A1, glacier and snow-fields are easy. Equipment: chocks, slings, a few Friends. Combination of the routes 169, 483, 481 and 475 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995). Approx. 5 to 6 hours of the Rotondo hut and back again.
From the Rotondo hut up to the Witenwasseren pass. The climb starts with a 10 m corner about 10 m right of the ridge. Climb straight up this corner and continue to the left crossing a slab and large blocks to a yellow wall. From here move slightly to the left using cracks to a good stance. Continue to the left to the foot of the first gendarme (stance). Subsequently (key pitch) climb steeply to the right halfway up the slab then stay more to the right, climbing the holdless diedre (A1) up to the stance. From there easily to the first Gendarme. A 15 m rappel leads to a gap. From here left through a chimney not always reliable up to the 2nd gendarme. The following slab is avoided to the left, then climb straight up to the stance. Climb the following wall directly. From here,beautifully located, climb on to the west summit.
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Beautiful climb on solid, southward facing rock. 200 m elevation difference with rather continuing difficulty of V+, A1 or VII . Equipment: Rocks 1-9, a few Friends, some pitons, double ropes of 50 m length. Combination of the routes 492 and 494 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995). Approx. 3 hours for the climb, 5 hours from the Rotondo hut and back again.
From the Rotondo hut across the Witenwasseren glacier and then over snow and rock to the summit of the Hüenerstock. From there down the rappel way (5 belays with chains) back to the start.
Go back the ascent way to the hut.
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In early summer this route is an attractive ice climb. Elevation difference 200 m, 45 degrees steep, graded ZS. 2 hours from the Rotondo hut, 2 hours for the wall, 2-3 hours for the descent and the return to the hut. Combination of the routes 169, 458, 446, 441, 445 and 419 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995).
From the hut across the Witenwasseren pass to the glacier basin at the foot of the Rotondo north face. Cross the Bergschrund (the top crevasse that is between the moving part of the glacier and the part that is frozen onto the mountain). Ascend in direction to the main summit, later somewhat more to the right to the large col on the north west ridge. After reaching the north west ridge continue to the summit (about 50 meters). From the main summit continue to the south ridge down to the Passo di Ruino (approx. 2940 m, without names and height on the process map, between the Pizzo Rotondo and the Puncione di Ruino). Now across the Passo di Rotondo and the Witenwasseren pass back to the hut.
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Pizzo Rotondo north wall. The NNW ridge is the right ridge in the picture, the ice route by the north face follows the central snow field
Worthwhile climb on solid granite. 2 hours from the Rotondo hut to the beginning of the climb, 3 hours for the climb to the summit 2-3 hours for the descend and back to the hut. Difficulty IV (ZS+), equipment: Rocks, a few Friends, slings. Combination of the routes 169, 419, 453 and 441 of the SAC Clubführer Gotthard (1995).
From the Witenwasserenpass to the foot of the north ridge southeast of point 2755. Now upwards on well graded plates within the area of the edge and in most beautiful climbing over two strongholds to the point, where the ridge turns southeast. Continue eastward, move past a steep slab and across the gendarme into a col. Continue from there to the north summit and the main summit, Descend the south ridge down to the Passo di Ruino (approx. 2940m, without names and height on the map, between the Pizzo Rotondo and the Puncione di Ruino). Now across the Passo di Rotondo and the Witenwasseren pass back to the hut.
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